One of only 28 examples in this configuration, the H37* is an excellent showcase of craft in Roger Dubuis' Hommage series. Pared back to the essentials, the wave-style guilloché dial is the true star of this piece, done on the black dial in a way that is both subtle yet mesmerising. Several other details, such as the Breguet-style hands and numerals come together nicely to create a distinct, yet classic piece.

The history of Roger Dubuis is rich and complex, as Dubuis started his career in the 1950s working for Longines before moving on to Patek Philippe’s complications department. From there, he went his own way, starting his workshop in the ‘80s. Later on, in 1995, Dubuis would launch his eponymous brand with the help of businessman Carlos Dias.

The first Roger Dubuis pieces were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Genevan watchmaking that Patek Philippe embodied, paired with the watchmaker's signature stylistic flair. Dubuis' attempt to emulate Patek Philippe was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to his design of deployant buckles. The Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a tribute to the great watchmakers of old, according to Dubuis. In 2003, after only eight years, the watchmaker left his eponymous brand. Though his output in the earliest days of the brand was limited, the design and quality of the pieces he produced have stood the test of time.

This time-only piece is perhaps the purest incarnation of the Hommage concept, paring it back to its most essential components. As the name suggests, the Hommage pieces were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of the past, according to Dubuis himself. In practice, this meant classic, vintage-leaning designs, combined with refined mechanical movements. 

The wave-style guilloché found on the dial stands out especially here, as a signature of Dubuis' brand and also as the textures come through beautifully on the plain, uncomplicated dial. Applied Breguet numerals are used on this example. This style of numerals first appeared just before the French Revolution, when Abraham-Louis Breguet helped to cement the style. Since then, these cursive numerals have been used on a range of prestigious timepieces, though they've become most associated with vintage watches from Patek Philippe. The printed minute track and applied numerals are in white, contrasting against the dark surface. Meanwhile, the hour and minute hands are slightly different from the usual leaf-shaped hands, instead in a corresponding Breguet-style, with a tapered tip, and matching the style of numerals. Notably, in place of the typical "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, a small cartouche can be found, with "guilloché main" inscribed - a nod to the handcrafted nature of the piece.

The 37mm case is subtle and discreet, with its finely polished bezel and lugs, contrasting with a brushed mid-case, a subtle nod to vintage dress watches from the past. Though this piece is fitted with a sapphire crystal, it is also accompanied by an additional closed caseback, which features fine perlage on the inside.

The watch is powered by the Calibre RD 57, based on a Lemania 8810 ébauche. One of the highest quality base automatic movements available at the time, the Lemania 8810 was also used for the brand's perpetual calendar, as well as being integrated by other watchmakers of the time, such as Daniel Roth. It also bears a Geneva seal, indicating the highest standards of movement finishing.

It is also accompanied by a large number of materials such as its original box, Certificate of Origin, retailer note, and hangtags, acting as an intriguing glimpse into the time period of when this was made. The movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory, setting far more exacting standards than a test from the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), and has the corresponding certificate, in addition to an official Certificate of Origin from the Republic and Canton of Geneva, the office that provides the Geneva Seal.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Roger Dubuis Hommage will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Brand:	Roger Dubuis
Model:	Hommage ref. H37 57 0
Movement:	automatic calibre AD57
Functions:	hours, minutes, central seconds
Features:	display back, engraved black dial
Case material:	white gold
Case diameter:	37mm
Case thickness:	9.2mm
Lug-to-lug:	44.5mm
Crystal:	sapphire front & back
Strap:	Jean Rousseau red alligator strap, Roger Dubuis white gold pin buckle
Lug width:	18 x 16mm
Year:	1998
Accompanying materials:	Roger Dubuis outer box & inner wooden box, certificate of origin & international guarantee (signed & stamped), certificate of origin card (stamped & dated), Observatoire National de Besançon approval certificate (signed, stamped & dated), additional caseback, hangtag

Condition

This Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs show light signs of wear, with superficial marks on the bezel and lugs. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. All hallmarks on the reverse of the lugs are visible, with light marks where previous strap changes have likely taken place.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year, limited warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.